Sunday, June 30, 2013

Exploring Istanbul

Since we are heading to Singapore tomorrow, our heads will soon be filled with exciting new experiences in Asia, but at the same time, we will continue to reflect and post on all the incredible places we were fortunate enough to visit in the European region....  What better place to begin than with the "here and now"?

We spent over a week and a half in Istanbul!  That may seem an odd decision, given that Turkey is huge, with so much to explore.  However, after budget traveling around Europe for nearly four months, we were exhausted, and lucky we made it out of the city at all (to Cappadocia)! Fortunately, Istanbul is a place where each stroll around the same area seems vastly different each time, and thus, we were able to savor the sights and sounds of a completely new, fascinating destination disparate to any we had previously visited, and at a pivotal time in its history, to boot :)  Behold, Istanbul:



Disoriented after a long bus ride from Athens and an ATM mishap at the Otogar bus station, we wandered around Istanbul for a couple of hours before finally making our way to the Taksim Square neighborhood, walking past busloads of riot police, locals began to warn us to stay out of the area.  Soon, we began to smell the tear gas, and the air was hazy with dust and smoke.  Piles of rubble lay smoldering.  Broken glass from display windows littered the streets, and we picked our way past uprooted metal posts.  After a full night of struggles between protesters and police, the area had been closed to traffic.  A few pedestrians tentatively made their way through the area.  As we began to cough more frequently and the haze grew thicker, we turned around, went into a restaurant back down the hill (pictured above), and discovered an email from our would-be host, telling us not to come to Taksim Square.....  and we finally had breakfast while discussing the unrest with a local young Turkish couple and an Australian family residing in Istanbul.  We proceeded to book different lodging and headed to the Fatih neighborhood, thoroughly exhausted.....  (Two weeks later, we returned safely to explore Taksim Square.)



Our first glimpse of the Blue Mosque, or Sultanahmet Mosque.  As I learned when entering this mosque, although prayer is to be done five times daily in Islam, it need not necessarily take place inside a mosque each time.  There is no particular universal design of a mosque, and thus there is a great degree of regionalism in architecture.  Looking forward to comparing with mosques in Asian countries.


Roman aqueduct, in excellent condition.


The Globesters (with me in my "Crocodile Hunter" hat) and our friend Annika, who we were thrilled to meet up with in Istanbul after having explored Sofia, Bulgaria together.


The New Mosque.


A ferry terminal on the Bosphorus River, where the famous fish sandwiches are sold.


More fish sandwich joints under the bridge.


Goofing off with Annika outside of Topkapi Palace.  True to form, we did not go inside, as most of the fun was to be had outside, where the locals hung out.  We also thought the 20 USD price tag was a bit steep.


The Topkapi palace grounds used to house 4,000 people in medieval times.


Night scene, with the Blue Mosque in the background.


The Sultanahmet bar area, where the foreigners and some locals like to have a beer on the various terraces.



This picture is not great from a photography standpoint, but I like it.  The Blue Mosque is in the background.


Looking very hipster, eating musaka at our favorite restaurant in the conservative Fatih neighborhood, where we spent most of our time.


Looking for the Thai embassy to obtain our tourist visas.


Obelisk near the Blue Mosque.


Street life, with lots of Turkish flags.


Detailing on the lovely medieval architecture.


Almost ready to enter the Blue Mosque; just need to cover my arms.


Mosque coverage requirements.


Inside the wall of the Blue Mosque.


Blue Mosque.


Blue Mosque.


Blue Mosque.



Exiting the Blue Mosque.



Architectural marvel Aya Sofia in the background.


Blue Mosque in the sun.


Strolling the shopping streets.  Lovely lamps for sale.



Along the Bosphorus.


Fishing.


Galata Tower.


Walking home from the market.


Cats rule the roost in Istanbul.  They are collectively fed and watered in a long tradition of cat lovers.  It is debatable whether this is due to religion or other cultural factors in the area, but it is lovely to see so many healthy, plump, adored street cats.


Hotel Fatih.


Near the Blue Mosque.  Under construction, it appears to be a museum.


Not a worry in the world.


Dolmabahce Clock Tower.


Dolmabahce Palace gates.


Blue Mosque at sunset.


Cute little bus.  Never took one; it seemed to operate on a different system from the larger city buses.  Either way, we tended to walk everywhere, since the transit system was on the pricey side...


Stopping for a tea break by the river.


Stopping for another break in the park, admiring some of the flags Harold has accumulated on his backpack.


The Grand Bazaar.


Grand Bazaar.


Dolmabahce Palace from our packed-to-the-gills Bosphorus River cruise boat.  It was the cheapest one, and also featured free tea!


A wedding.


Bosphorus Bridge linking Europe and Asia.


The Asian side of Istanbul.


A palace on the Asian side.



Passing a much larger vessel.


The hazy, humid skyline.


A statue commemorating the Turkish War of Independence from the Allied powers, which ended in 1923.


Strolling the Taksim Square neighborhood, teeming with activity, a tinge of tear gas still in the air.


Fountain outside a Greek Orthodox Church.


Stringy sweets dripping with honey.


Catholic church.


Lovely colors in the Catholic church.


Fun street art.


Hand of Fatima, a symbol of protection from the evil eye.  Predating Islam and Christianity, and popular in North Africa and the Middle East, it is referred to as the Hand of Mary or the Hand of Miriam in some Christian and Jewish communities, respectively.


To enter or not...?


Winding streets near Galata Tower.


Who says only humans can sell jewelry?


Not meeting the minimum code requirement.


Taksim Square, site of recent unrest that expresses the deep political and cultural divide in Turkey.


Oops, construction gone awry.  Hit a pipe!  Taksim Square metro stop.


Wedding dresses galore, with some of the most beautiful designs I have ever seen (this one is not in that category...).



Whew, long day.


Cemetery entrance.


Cemetery stone adornment.


Saying goodbye to our regular eatery in Fatih.  Fair prices, tasty food, friendly service.



Tile work, inside the Blue Mosque.

It is 2am and I have a flight to catch tomorrow, so ciao for now, readers.  Peace out!


Thursday, June 27, 2013

Photos of the day, from Istanbul


Today's photo shows the interior of the first mosque we have ever entered: the colorful Suleymaniye Mosque in Istanbul, built in the 1800s to honor Sultan Suleyman.  I do not know the meaning behind the light displays, but they are really lovely, as are the stained glass windows which, in keeping with Islam, consist of geometric designs rather than human representations of religious figures.  








Saturday, June 22, 2013

Trekking in Cappadocia, Turkey

Our second day in the Cappadocia region of Central Anatolia, Turkey, we opted for an early rise to spend the day exploring the rocky valleys on foot.  It was an unforgettable trek, as we ventured through a stunning physical and cultural landscape.  Since I want to share quite a few photos to give you an idea of how our eight-hour walk unfolded, here is the album link:

https://plus.google.com/photos/100632800515803453164/albums/5892332393087483281?authkey=CPPWypSL9JjWZg

A few notes on the photos, as I didn't caption all of them....  Cappadocia, named as such since the sixth century B.C., has alternately been under the control of the Persians, Romans, Byzantines before becoming part of the Ottoman Empire in the 1700s.  The characteristic soft volcanic rock was shaped by running water over 7 million years ago,  and the resulting tall, oblong structures provided protection to early Christians from invaders of other faiths.  The Goreme area, which is pictured in our photo album, was a monastic center from approximately 300 to 1200 A.D. Dwellings, churches and other spaces were created by simply chiseling into the rock.  Thus, the rooms were susceptible to collapse, and only the most stable ones are available for visitation and habitation in the modern day.  At the end of the album are a few photos of a Turkish folk dance parade and competition that we had no idea was going on- lucky us!  The finals are about to start, about five blocks from our hotel, so off we go!

Thursday, June 20, 2013

Sunset in Goreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

It may have been a cramped, stuffy, noisy 12-hour overnight bus ride from Istanbul, but wow!  Here we are in Cappadocia, the land of the "fairy chimneys", or soft, spiky natural rock formations that have traditionally housed locals for thousands of years.  Can't wait to explore this historically significant region (which is on the ancient Silk Road trade route) and spend some time in the countryside for a change!  


A minaret rises alongside a tall rock, the sundown call to prayer echoing off of the varied landscape.


A traditional home with a nice car in front of it.  The area appears to be quite economically developed due to tourism, despite its remote location and limited transportation options.


The view from the panoramic lookout point in Goreme.